10 OF YOSEMITE’S SPECTACULAR FALLS
Thomas Atkins
My Sierra Mountain Times
May 8, 2009
Spring is in full force and the shouts of freedom can be heard echoing in the canyons and ravines as the rush of rioting water rejoices in its escape from the clutches of winter. After months of captivity in their high altitude prisons of ice and snow, the May sun is beginning to free the army of melting molecules creating an unstoppable force of splashing, spraying, spinning chaos roaring in the rivers and creeks on their quest to the sea.
Throughout its journey, this mass of melted snow will get to experience a multitude of thrills that we can only dream about. As the canyons rapidly drop thousands of feet in elevation from the Sierra peaks down to the distant valley, the raging run-off will encounter the exhilaration of hundreds of freefalls. These cascades and waterfalls are one of the main highlights of the season and people will travel thousands of miles and hike for several hours just to catch a glimpse of these falling phenomena.
These unique and natural waterfalls can be found along the countless miles of creeks and rivers roaring through the Mother Lode, yet none of them is comparable to the towering, powerful giants found within Yosemite National Park. Home to Yosemite Valley and its lesser-known twin, Hetch Hetchy Valley, these mighty granite gorges display dozens of world-renowned waterfalls and cascades. However, out of all the months of the year, May is when these wild wonders reach their maximum water run-off, creating a show unparalleled to any other time of the year. Now is the opportune time to capture these famed-falls in the peak of their spectacular presentation, and with the weekend of Mother’s Day upon us, what better place to take your mother than this picturesque mountain sanctuary – arguably the most beautiful setting in the state!
For the past several years our family has spent this special day surrounded by the sights and sounds of the Valley, and each May visit always seems to be more spectacular than the last. Witnessing these falls at maximum capacity can be considered one of the greatest shows on earth, and for those who haven’t seen it yet…don’t miss it! Whether it’s this weekend or one of the days to follow, make the time to take advantage of Yosemite’s premier performance.
On average, the month of May is when Bridalveil, Yosemite, Illilouette, Vernal, Nevada, Wapama, and Rancheria falls reach their climax. It is also when numerous seasonal falls make their praiseworthy appearance to the valleys. Each of these falls is uniquely formed and brings its own character and life to its valley dwelling. Flaunting their beauty down the canyon walls, one can’t help but be captivated by these free falling creations. Whether standing above and looking down, or standing at their misty base and looking up, waterfalls instill a sense of awe to those who stand in their powerful presence. During the month of May this admiration is magnified, and entering Yosemite Valley is comparable to entering a colossal cathedral when the choir is singing its encore performance in top form. Everything is alive and vibrant. The flowers and dogwoods are in bloom, the meadows are green, wildlife is abundant…and the choir is singing. Yosemite mountain man John Muir described this scene in one of his colorful journal entries as, “The snow is melting into music…the sublime rocks were trembling with the tones of the mighty chanting congregation of waters gathered from all the mountains round about, making music that might draw angels out of heaven.”
This heavenly music cannot help but be heard during this prequel to summer when the temperatures begin to rise, the runoff is at its peak, and the waterfalls are running wildly over the granite cliffs, resounding proudly throughout the valleys.
While most waterfalls are tucked away in remote sections of rivers and creeks, performing for no one but their creator, Yosemite’s falls are available for all to witness…and are surprisingly accessible. Not only are most of its falls accessible, but they are surprisingly close in proximity. In fact, if desired, one could easily see at least ten of these amazing waterfalls and cascades in less than a day…almost all from the comfort of a car (although I don’t recommend seeing them from this viewpoint). Those interested in embarking on a waterfall adventure to these twin valleys should begin the journey at Hetch Hetchy Valley off of Highway 120 on the way to Yosemite Valley.
Winding down into the flooded Valley you will witness Wapama Fall and Tueeulala Fall running down the north end, but the best viewpoint for these stunning sites is atop the 312-foot O’Shaughnessy Dam. Tueeulala Fall, a slender seasonal flow that falls 840 feet before disappearing into the Valley’s deep reservoir, typically dries up around late June or July. Cascading off of the same cliff a few miles up reservoir is the powerful Wapama Fall. From the dam only a small protion of the 1,400-foot fall is visible, with the majority hidden behind a granite cliff. The best view of this immense freefall of whitewater in its entirety is from directly above or from the top of Kolana Rock. Unfortunately, there are no trails to either of these locations, but there is a fairly level 2.3-mile trail leading along the reservoir’s edge to the base of these soaring falls. From the base of Wapama Fall, hikers can cross the mist-covered footbridge and continue another 3.7 miles to view the raging chute of Rancheria Fall.
After checking off at least two falls from Yosemite’s must see list, exit the rugged and remote Hetch Hetchy Valley and continue driving along 120 toward Yosemite Valley. The first glimpse of this Valley’s amazing waterfalls can be seen after passing through one of the several tunnels blasted though the granite canyon walls to reach the valley floor. From a pullout on the right hand side Bridalveil Fall can be seen feeding the frenzy of gargling green rapids of the mighty Merced River as it maneuvers it’s way toward lower elevations. Not far past this overlook the road crosses over Tamarack and Cascade creeks, giving valley visitors a small glimpse of the sights and sounds that lie ahead. Muir described these sounds after camping along the banks of these creeks during his 1869 trek to the Valley. “All the Merced streams are wonderful singers,” he said. Of Tamarack he said the “creek cascades on its way to the Merced Canyon, a few miles below Yosemite, falling more than 3,000 feet in a distance of about two miles. From a point about a half mile from the camp I can see into lower Yosemite with its wonderful cliffs and groves, a grand page of mountain manuscript that I would gladly give my life to be able to read.” And of Cascade Creek he stated, “Never was a stream more fittingly named, for as far as I have traced it above and below our camp it is one continuous bouncing, dancing, white bloom of cascades. And at the very last, unwearied it finishes its wild course in a grand leap of 300 hundred feet or more to the bottom of the main Yosemite Canyon.”
Parking at the turnouts near these cascades one can witness Muir’s description, and adventurous souls who choose to explore these creek’s steep terrain will be rewarded with un-crowded views of these whitewater wonders. Yosemite Valley is home to numerous creeks such as these, which, once reaching the lofty canyon walls, turn their mundane meandering into extraordinary catapults of liquid comets as they make their stunning decent to the valley floor. Upon reaching the Valley floor, the aptly named Bridalveil Fall is the first of these falls to catch your gaze.
Located on the south side of the Valley, this picture-perfect falls is my favorite of all of Yosemite’s water treasures. In my opinion it resembles the perfect waterfall – leaping 620 feet from the granite ledge below Cathedral Rocks its veil-like figure staying true to form like an Olympic high diver. Those who wish to be cloaked in its misty veil can take a short, wet walk to the fall’s base where the powerful surge of dazzling white is pummeled into an explosion of spray and mist.
On the opposite side of the Valley from Bridalveil Fall lies Ribbon Fall, a slender, seasonal fall which flows from March through June and reaches its peak flow in May. During this time of year the 1,612-foot fall is a delightful decoration and ads to the beautiful white banners draped along the Valley’s granite cliffs. As there are no trails to its base, this impressive fall is best seen from the turnout past the Bridalveil Fall exit.
Further up the canyon, also on the northern side, lies the mother of all of Yosemite’s falls, rightfully bearing its namesake. Made up three separate falls, Yosemite Falls can’t help but attract the eye as the white columns cascade in contrast to the backdrop browns and grays of the granite cliffs and create one of the most spectacular sites in the valley. Like a reversed-geyser it seems to explode toward the ground, polishing and grinding the granite below as it plummets 1,430 feet through open air. After reaching the base of the Upper Fall it detonates into a cloud of mist and then regroups to form 675 feet of cascades (known as the Middle Fall) before plunging over the final ledge and freefalling 320 feet to create the Lower Fall. All in all, this series of falls and cascades is 2,425 feet, making it the tallest waterfall in North America, and the fifth tallest in the entire world! And when it is gushing forth in its full glory, it is truly a sight to behold. Flowing November through July Yosemite Falls is one of the main attractions in the park and trails lead valley visitors to the base of the Lower Fall and to the rim of the valley where hikers can witness the birth of this natural wonder. Muir was one of the first to describe this breathtaking scene over 125 years ago (long before any railings were in place). Inching his way down to a ledge just big enough for his toes he “looked down into the heart of the bright irised throng of comet-like streamers,” before carefully climbing back to safety. Later he said that his daredevil stunt was worth it…but he never did it again.
Today, many people conquer the challenging 3.5-mile trail to the top of the lofty cliffs where they can experience this exhilarating rush. Staring over the brink of the falls (from behind the safety of a railing) one can witness Yosemite Creek give into gravity and succumb to the Valley’s biggest drops. The strenuous trial to reach this jaw-dropping view is one of Yosemite’s oldest, and like other early trails in the valley, the Yosemite Falls Trail was privately built and operated as a toll trail. From 1873 to 1877, John Conway labored intermittently to produce a route to the Upper Falls brink – a route to replace the old Indian path that once climbed Indian Canyon. However, in 1885 Conway was forced to sell ownership of the trail to the state for $1,500, giving free admittance to all.
Today visitors come and go on all of the numerous Valley trails, but the most traveled is the fittingly titled “Mist Trail”, which follows the Merced River at the eastern end of the Valley. This historic trail dating back to the mid-1850s leads countless tourists to Vernal and Nevada Falls, but the first fall visible along its path is Illilouette Fall, concealed in a corner on the southern side of the Valley. Although the base of the falls is inaccessible from the Mist Trail, views from the top of Illilouette Fall can be witnessed from along the Panorama Trail from Glacier Point. Starting from this impressive overlook, which offers full views of Half Dome and Vernal and Nevada falls, a 2-mile downhill walk along this trail will lead you to Illilouette Creek’s 370-foot plunge as it works its way down to the Merced River.
It is on the Merced River where Nevada and Vernal falls make their year-round homes less than a mile apart. By way of the Mist Trail, which offers a section of unavoidable clothes-soaking mist through May and early summer, hikers can reach the top of Vernal Fall after a steep 1.3-mile trek (Those wishing to avoid the mist can bypass it by taking the longer John Muir Trail). In the rambling days of Muir a jaunt along the Mist Trail was much different, and to reach the top of the falls required hikers to climb a series of ladders bolted to the cliff. In 1892 wooden steps with handrails replaced this route until the current trail was blasted through the granite allowing a much easier route to the top. Although Vernal Fall is one of the shortest falls at only 317 feet, it is the widest of all the falls and allows the river to drape over a majority of the overhanging cliff face like a curtain…a much different sight than Nevada Fall’s chaotic performance less than a mile upriver.
When Muir compared these two falls he said that they “offered striking differences in voice, form, color etc.” He wrote that “The Vernal drops smoothly over a round-lipped precipice and forms a superb apron of embroidery, green and white, slightly folded and fluted, maintaining this form nearly to the bottom, where it is suddenly veiled in quick flying billows of spray and mist in which the afternoon sunbeams play with ravishing beauty of rainbow colors. The Nevada is white from its appearance as it leaps out into the freedom of the air. About two thirds of the way down, the hurrying throng of comet shaped masses glance on an inclined part of the face of the precipice and are beaten into yet whiter foam, greatly expanded and sent bounding outward, making an indescribably glorious show. In this fall – one of the most beautiful in the world – the water does not seem to be under the dominion of ordinary laws, but rather as if it were a living creature, full of the strength of them mountains and their huge, wild joy.” I tend to agree with Muir and have often thought that Nevada is the most wild of Yosemite’s falls. Towering at 594 feet, this brilliant outburst of raging runoff is a perfect example of nature’s power.
Spring is in full force and the shouts of freedom can be heard echoing in the canyons and ravines as the rush of rioting water rejoices in its escape from the clutches of winter. After months of captivity in their high altitude prisons of ice and snow, the May sun is beginning to free the army of melting molecules creating an unstoppable force of splashing, spraying, spinning chaos roaring in the rivers and creeks on their quest to the sea.
Throughout its journey, this mass of melted snow will get to experience a multitude of thrills that we can only dream about. As the canyons rapidly drop thousands of feet in elevation from the Sierra peaks down to the distant valley, the raging run-off will encounter the exhilaration of hundreds of freefalls. These cascades and waterfalls are one of the main highlights of the season and people will travel thousands of miles and hike for several hours just to catch a glimpse of these falling phenomena.
These unique and natural waterfalls can be found along the countless miles of creeks and rivers roaring through the Mother Lode, yet none of them is comparable to the towering, powerful giants found within Yosemite National Park. Home to Yosemite Valley and its lesser-known twin, Hetch Hetchy Valley, these mighty granite gorges display dozens of world-renowned waterfalls and cascades. However, out of all the months of the year, May is when these wild wonders reach their maximum water run-off, creating a show unparalleled to any other time of the year. Now is the opportune time to capture these famed-falls in the peak of their spectacular presentation, and with the weekend of Mother’s Day upon us, what better place to take your mother than this picturesque mountain sanctuary – arguably the most beautiful setting in the state!
For the past several years our family has spent this special day surrounded by the sights and sounds of the Valley, and each May visit always seems to be more spectacular than the last.
Witnessing these falls at maximum capacity can be considered one of the greatest shows on earth, and for those who haven’t seen it yet…don’t miss it! Whether it’s this weekend or one of the days to follow, make the time to take advantage of Yosemite’s premier performance.
On average, the month of May is when Bridalveil, Yosemite, Illilouette, Vernal, Nevada, Wapama, and Rancheria falls reach their climax. It is also when numerous seasonal falls make their praiseworthy appearance to the valleys. Each of these falls is uniquely formed and brings its own character and life to its valley dwelling. Flaunting their beauty down the canyon walls, one can’t help but be captivated by these free falling creations. Whether standing above and looking down, or standing at their misty base and looking up, waterfalls instill a sense of awe to those who stand in their powerful presence. During the month of May this admiration is magnified, and entering Yosemite Valley is comparable to entering a colossal cathedral when the choir is singing its encore performance in top form. Everything is alive and vibrant. The flowers and dogwoods are in bloom, the meadows are green, wildlife is abundant…and the choir is singing. Yosemite mountain man John Muir described this scene in one of his colorful journal entries as, “The snow is melting into music…the sublime rocks were trembling with the tones of the mighty chanting congregation of waters gathered from all the mountains round about, making music that might draw angels out of heaven.”
This heavenly music cannot help but be heard during this prequel to summer when the temperatures begin to rise, the runoff is at its peak, and the waterfalls are running wildly over the granite cliffs, resounding proudly throughout the valleys.
While most waterfalls are tucked away in remote sections of rivers and creeks, performing for no one but their creator, Yosemite’s falls are available for all to witness…and are surprisingly accessible. Not only are most of its falls accessible, but they are surprisingly close in proximity. In fact, if desired, one could easily see at least ten of these amazing waterfalls and cascades in less than a day…almost all from the comfort of a car (although I don’t recommend seeing them from this viewpoint). Those interested in embarking on a waterfall adventure to these twin valleys should begin the journey at Hetch Hetchy Valley off of Highway 120 on the way to Yosemite Valley.
Winding down into the flooded Valley you will witness Wapama Fall and Tueeulala Fall running down the north end, but the best viewpoint for these stunning sites is atop the 312-foot O’Shaughnessy Dam. Tueeulala Fall, a slender seasonal flow that falls 840 feet before disappearing into the Valley’s deep reservoir, typically dries up around late June or July. Cascading off of the same cliff a few miles up reservoir is the powerful Wapama Fall. From the dam only a small protion of the 1,400-foot fall is visible, with the majority hidden behind a granite cliff. The best view of this immense freefall of whitewater in its entirety is from directly above or from the top of Kolana Rock. Unfortunately, there are no trails to either of these locations, but there is a fairly level 2.3-mile trail leading along the reservoir’s edge to the base of these soaring falls. From the base of Wapama Fall, hikers can cross the mist-covered footbridge and continue another 3.7 miles to view the raging chute of Rancheria Fall.
After checking off at least two falls from Yosemite’s must see list, exit the rugged and remote Hetch Hetchy Valley and continue driving along 120 toward Yosemite Valley. The first glimpse of this Valley’s amazing waterfalls can be seen after passing through one of the several tunnels blasted though the granite canyon walls to reach the valley floor. From a pullout on the right hand side Bridalveil Fall can be seen feeding the frenzy of gargling green rapids of the mighty Merced River as it maneuvers it’s way toward lower elevations. Not far past this overlook the road crosses over Tamarack and Cascade creeks, giving valley visitors a small glimpse of the sights and sounds that lie ahead. Muir described these sounds after camping along the banks of these creeks during his 1869 trek to the Valley. “All the Merced streams are wonderful singers,” he said. Of Tamarack he said the “creek cascades on its way to the Merced Canyon, a few miles below Yosemite, falling more than 3,000 feet in a distance of about two miles. From a point about a half mile from the camp I can see into lower Yosemite with its wonderful cliffs and groves, a grand page of mountain manuscript that I would gladly give my life to be able to read.” And of Cascade Creek he stated, “Never was a stream more fittingly named, for as far as I have traced it above and below our camp it is one continuous bouncing, dancing, white bloom of cascades. And at the very last, unwearied it finishes its wild course in a grand leap of 300 hundred feet or more to the bottom of the main Yosemite Canyon.”
Parking at the turnouts near these cascades one can witness Muir’s description, and adventurous souls who choose to explore these creek’s steep terrain will be rewarded with un-crowded views of these whitewater wonders. Yosemite Valley is home to numerous creeks such as these, which, once reaching the lofty canyon walls, turn their mundane meandering into extraordinary catapults of liquid comets as they make their stunning decent to the valley floor. Upon reaching the Valley floor, the aptly named Bridalveil Fall is the first of these falls to catch your gaze.
Located on the south side of the Valley, this picture-perfect falls is my favorite of all of Yosemite’s water treasures. In my opinion it resembles the perfect waterfall – leaping 620 feet from the granite ledge below Cathedral Rocks its veil-like figure staying true to form like an Olympic high diver. Those who wish to be cloaked in its misty veil can take a short, wet walk to the fall’s base where the powerful surge of dazzling white is pummeled into an explosion of spray and mist.
On the opposite side of the Valley from Bridalveil Fall lies Ribbon Fall, a slender, seasonal fall which flows from March through June and reaches its peak flow in May. During this time of year the 1,612-foot fall is a delightful decoration and ads to the beautiful white banners draped along the Valley’s granite cliffs. As there are no trails to its base, this impressive fall is best seen from the turnout past the Bridalveil Fall exit.
Further up the canyon, also on the northern side, lies the mother of all of Yosemite’s falls, rightfully bearing its namesake. Made up three separate falls, Yosemite Falls can’t help but attract the eye as the white columns cascade in contrast to the backdrop browns and grays of the granite cliffs and create one of the most spectacular sites in the valley. Like a reversed-geyser it seems to explode toward the ground, polishing and grinding the granite below as it plummets 1,430 feet through open air. After reaching the base of the Upper Fall it detonates into a cloud of mist and then regroups to form 675 feet of cascades (known as the Middle Fall) before plunging over the final ledge and freefalling 320 feet to create the Lower Fall. All in all, this series of falls and cascades is 2,425 feet, making it the tallest waterfall in North America, and the fifth tallest in the entire world! And when it is gushing forth in its full glory, it is truly a sight to behold. Flowing November through July Yosemite Falls is one of the main attractions in the park and trails lead valley visitors to the base of the Lower Fall and to the rim of the valley where hikers can witness the birth of this natural wonder. Muir was one of the first to describe this breathtaking scene over 125 years ago (long before any railings were in place). Inching his way down to a ledge just big enough for his toes he “looked down into the heart of the bright irised throng of comet-like streamers,” before carefully climbing back to safety. Later he said that his daredevil stunt was worth it…but he never did it again.
Today, many people conquer the challenging 3.5-mile trail to the top of the lofty cliffs where they can experience this exhilarating rush. Staring over the brink of the falls (from behind the safety of a railing) one can witness Yosemite Creek give into gravity and succumb to the Valley’s biggest drops. The strenuous trial to reach this jaw-dropping view is one of Yosemite’s oldest, and like other early trails in the valley, the Yosemite Falls Trail was privately built and operated as a toll trail. From 1873 to 1877, John Conway labored intermittently to produce a route to the Upper Falls brink – a route to replace the old Indian path that once climbed Indian Canyon. However, in 1885 Conway was forced to sell ownership of the trail to the state for $1,500, giving free admittance to all.
Today visitors come and go on all of the numerous Valley trails, but the most traveled is the fittingly titled “Mist Trail”, which follows the Merced River at the eastern end of the Valley. This historic trail dating back to the mid-1850s leads countless tourists to Vernal and Nevada Falls, but the first fall visible along its path is Illilouette Fall, concealed in a corner on the southern side of the Valley. Although the base of the falls is inaccessible from the Mist Trail, views from the top of Illilouette Fall can be witnessed from along the Panorama Trail from Glacier Point. Starting from this impressive overlook, which offers full views of Half Dome and Vernal and Nevada falls, a 2-mile downhill walk along this trail will lead you to Illilouette Creek’s 370-foot plunge as it works its way down to the Merced River.
It is on the Merced River where Nevada and Vernal falls make their year-round homes less than a mile apart. By way of the Mist Trail, which offers a section of unavoidable clothes-soaking mist through May and early summer, hikers can reach the top of Vernal Fall after a steep 1.3-mile trek (Those wishing to avoid the mist can bypass it by taking the longer John Muir Trail). In the rambling days of Muir a jaunt along the Mist Trail was much different, and to reach the top of the falls required hikers to climb a series of ladders bolted to the cliff. In 1892 wooden steps with handrails replaced this route until the current trail was blasted through the granite allowing a much easier route to the top. Although Vernal Fall is one of the shortest falls at only 317 feet, it is the widest of all the falls and allows the river to drape over a majority of the overhanging cliff face like a curtain…a much different sight than Nevada Fall’s chaotic performance less than a mile upriver.
When Muir compared these two falls he said that they “offered striking differences in voice, form, color etc.” He wrote that “The Vernal drops smoothly over a round-lipped precipice and forms a superb apron of embroidery, green and white, slightly folded and fluted, maintaining this form nearly to the bottom, where it is suddenly veiled in quick flying billows of spray and mist in which the afternoon sunbeams play with ravishing beauty of rainbow colors. The Nevada is white from its appearance as it leaps out into the freedom of the air. About two thirds of the way down, the hurrying throng of comet shaped masses glance on an inclined part of the face of the precipice and are beaten into yet whiter foam, greatly expanded and sent bounding outward, making an indescribably glorious show. In this fall – one of the most beautiful in the world – the water does not seem to be under the dominion of ordinary laws, but rather as if it were a living creature, full of the strength of them mountains and their huge, wild joy.” I tend to agree with Muir and have often thought that Nevada is the most wild of Yosemite’s falls. Towering at 594 feet, this brilliant outburst of raging runoff is a perfect example of nature’s power.
Other falls and cascades that can also be witnessed within Yosemite Valley include Lehamite, Staircase, Sentinel, Silver Apron, Royal Arch, Horsetail, Widow’s Tears and Snow Creek. It is no wonder that Yosemite has become a Mecca for waterfall enthusiasts, photographers, artists and hikers. However, don’t let the crowds deter you from enjoying one of creation’s finest productions, and even on the most crowded Valley days I guarantee you can find a place to enjoy the scenery in solitude. Located only one to three hours away from most Tuolumne and Calaveras county residents, this high quality show is definitely worth drive, and it will only be playing in High Definition for a few more weeks! It won’t be long before the summer sun starts to steal some of the waterfalls thunder…so get over there! And remember the words of Muir, “One day in the midst of these divine glories is well worth living and toiling and striving for…”
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